How I Save Cucumbers Outdoors During Heavy Rains

Having moved from the village to the city, our family first of all acquired a summer cottage. For me, indeed, "summer is a small life." When the summer is warm and not rainy, the harvest is always happy, but heavy rainfall creates certain difficulties. I want to share my experience of how I save cucumbers during the period of prolonged rains.

Cucumbers love warmth and moisture, but when it rains for several days in a row and the temperature drops, the plants are really stressed.

The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the roots begin to rot, and the ovaries stop forming. We cannot cancel the bad weather in any way, but it is quite possible to help the cucumbers. Ideally, the garden bed should rise above the surface of the earth, then excess water will drain without harming the cucumbers. In regions with cold and temperate climates, they are made with a base of rotted manure, compost or vegetable waste from the garden. In the process of decay, they will give off heat, and at the same time nourish the roots. If the cucumbers grow directly on the ground, then drainage must be done to release excess water. For this, shallow diverting grooves are dug, which can then be filled up.A film stretched over arcs will serve as protection from heavy rains and cold. Such a mini-greenhouse needs to be ventilated in order to prevent root rot. Nutrients are washed out of the soil with water, therefore, during the rains, fertilizing should be applied more often than usual. Gardeners are trying to get by with inexpensive available means. Iodine is an antiseptic, it strengthens the immune system, protecting against root rot and late blight. Ash is a natural potash fertilizer; dry it is sprinkled on a garden bed, and leaves and ovary are sprayed with a solution. Extracts from cow and poultry manure in a proportion of 500 and 100 grams, respectively, per bucket of water are also useful. Healthy plants can more easily tolerate the vagaries of nature. Thickened bushes should be thinned, cut off the lower leaves and side shoots, and after rains, treat with a soda solution. For its preparation, 30 grams of soda and 20 laundry soap are taken in a ten-liter bucket of water.

It is recommended to cover the beds with a thick layer of chopped grass, shavings or straw. Before this, the soil must be drained by making branch channels and loosened.

If it happens in the spring, and the plants are in poor condition, you can replace them. It is not too late to buy seeds of early varieties, warm up and germinate, they will catch up and overtake damaged plants. A good result can be obtained, regardless of the vagaries of nature, in any situation there is always a way out. If cucumbers are protected, fed and insulated during this difficult period, they will survive the unfavorable weather and will thank them with a decent harvest.

What to do if the site is flooded

When the site is located in a lowland, situations occur when, due to torrential rains, the beds with plantings are flooded. Due to the excessive amount of moisture, the root system of the seedlings begins to rot, and the plant dies. To avoid such a nuisance, it is urgently necessary to make small taps for stagnant water and carefully choose the place where the pit will be located, which will receive the drains from the drainage channels.

At the maximum accumulation of water, its level is measured - this measure will help to orientate at what depth it is necessary to make the diversion paths and the drainage ditch. If the farm has a small pump, then it is advisable to use it to pump out the water running into the pit.

To avoid getting sludge and mud into the pump, it is recommended to dip it into water in an old bucket with small holes punched into its walls. For the same purposes, instead of a bucket, you can use a piece of plastic pipe with drilled slots, on top of which a piece of nylon fabric is pulled tightly.

Downy mildew control measures

To cure a plant affected by downy mildew, use a sulfur solution (for 1 bucket of water from 50 to 80 grams). It is used to spray the plant itself, as well as the surface of the soil around it. To combat peronosporosis, the following fungicidal agents are also used drugs: Gamair, Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M, Planriz or Glyokladin. A vegetable garden or a garden plot is sprayed with a solution of these funds with a break of 15 days. When about four weeks remain before harvesting, all spraying with fungicidal preparations will need to be stopped, and, if necessary, the treatment continues with less toxic and safer folk remedies.

Please note that it will not be possible to get rid of this disease only by treating plants with fungicides. You will also need to strictly adhere to the agrotechnical rules of various crops, and also do not forget about measures to prevent the disease.

Preventive measures

In order to prevent the appearance of plants affected by peronosporosis on your site, it is imperative to carry out preventive measures. For example, in the autumn, when the entire crop is harvested, the site is cleared of plant residues, and the soil is dug to a depth of 25 to 30 centimeters.

If last season on your site there were plants affected by peronosporosis, then in early spring it is recommended to treat the soil on the site with a solution of copper sulfate (2-3%) or manganese potassium (1%). After processing, a mandatory digging of the soil is carried out. For soil disinfection, you can also use the following biological agents: Gamair, Fitosporin-M or Alirin-B.

In order to prevent downy mildew at the beginning of the spring, before the buds bloom, the plants are treated with a solution of urea (7%), ammonium sulfate (15%) or ammonium nitrate (10%). Further, the trees are treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%): the first time - in the green cone phase, the second - at the end of flowering, and the third - during the formation of ovaries. Even after the plant has faded, it can be treated with such biological products as: Gaupsin, Gamair, Planriz, Integral or Mikosan. Also, the biological product Planriz is used for processing, unlike other means, they can process plants even when there is only 1 day left before harvesting.

In order to reduce the risk of damage to crops by peronosporosis, they are not grown annually in the same area. For example, if cucumbers grow on a certain site this season, then it will be possible to grow the same crop on it again only after 3-5 years (no less). Otherwise, pathogens will accumulate in the soil, due to which the bushes will grow weak and painful.

The seed is necessarily subjected to pre-sowing preparation, for this it is kept in a solution of potassium manganese (1%) or poured into a thermos filled with warm (from 45 to 50 degrees) water for 15 minutes. Before planting seedlings in a greenhouse or in open ground, their root system is immersed for 2-3 hours in a Trichodermin solution, which must be done according to the instructions (see the package).

For cultivation, it is recommended to choose those types and varieties of crops that are resistant to fungal diseases. Plantings should not be too dense, and the crowns of shrubs and trees should be systematically thinned out, because fungi grow and develop best in crowded conditions. Be sure to adhere to the agrotechnical rules of crops and provide the plants with proper and timely care. Those plants that are very strongly affected by peronosporosis are dug up and destroyed by fire.

Baking soda

Popular in cooking and in everyday life, baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is effectively used in vegetable growing as a fertilizer and pest control agent.

The use of baking soda has several advantages:

  • protection against fungal infections
  • antibacterial action
  • disease prevention
  • maintaining soil acidity
  • prevention of leaf aging
  • prolongation of the fruiting period
  • strengthening of immunity.

Soda combines several functions: it simultaneously acts as a fungicide and an insecticide. Cucumber lashes should be treated with soda solution three times during the growing season. This guarantees not only a good harvest, but also the resistance of plants to temperature extremes, to the negative effects of the environment.

Sodium bicarbonate is used for spraying and watering bushes. Root feeding with a large number of barren flowers will ensure the formation of new ovaries. To this end, it is necessary to pour at least 1 liter under each plant with dissolved 2 tablespoons of soda.

Reference! An excessive amount of soda in the soil will slow down the ripening process of cucumbers. Potassium is not absorbed by plants, the fruits are formed hook-shaped.

Feeding cucumbers during flowering with baking soda to increase fruiting can be carried out once a week. The treatment is repeated in case of rain, when the solution is washed off the sheet plates.

In order not to burn the leaves, the solution should not be too concentrated, 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water is enough. To avoid burns, the treatment is recommended to be carried out in the morning or evening hours, when the sun is not too active.

Reference! Soda is safe for humans, but if the solution comes into contact with cucumbers, it is worth rinsing them thoroughly with running water before eating.

As a preventive measure, soda solutions at different stages of cucumber development are added: potassium permanganate, liquid soap, wood ash.

Cucumbers turn yellow in the greenhouse. What can be done?

This year, parthenocarpic cucumbers Herman F1 were planted in the greenhouse, they grew well until recently. Daytime temperature + 24-25, at night + 18-20, top dressing was applied once with a solution of rotted manure, the second time (after 10 days) Azofosk + potassium nitrate. After the last feeding on the second day, the lower leaves and young ovaries began to turn yellow, while the upper leaves are green and the stepsons continue to appear.

When the bushes were young, once root rot appeared - they treated everything with Fitosporin M, it helped perfectly. Now there is something incomprehensible, there is a suspicion of fusarium, but everywhere in the description and in the photographs I see that the bushes with fusarium are still drooping green and massively, and my ones turn yellow gradually and fade in turn from the bottom up. Help me find a solution to how to save cucumbers before it's too late!

By the way, it is humid in the greenhouse, I try to water it every 4 days so that the soil does not become waterlogged. Cucumbers by this time have grown to 20-25 leaves, it's time for them to grow into fruits, and here such a misfortune (

Ways to fight

Powdery mildew treatment

If you are sure that the culture is affected by powdery mildew, you must remove from it all flower stalks and leaf plates that have turned yellow and wilted as soon as possible. Sometimes you have to cut off a significant part of the foliage, but you should not be afraid of this, since removing the affected parts of the plant, you increase the chances of its recovery.

Next, thoroughly treat the diseased bush with a fungicidal preparation, the solution should well moisten all its aerial parts. In this case, the medicinal mixture during processing should flow through the plant as if a very heavy rain had just passed. If a culture growing in open ground is being treated, then together with it with a solution of a fungicidal preparation, the surface of the soil in the garden bed or in the near-trunk circle is also necessarily treated.

Such a disease can also affect houseplants, what should be done in this case? After the bush is well treated with the fungicide, they should also spray the walls of the container in which it grows and the surface of the substrate. If the plant is very badly affected, then the top layer of the soil mixture, which contains the colony of fungal mycelium, will have to be removed from the container, and a new substrate is poured in its place, which must first be disinfected.

Prevention measures

In order to get rid of powdery mildew, an integrated approach is needed. In addition to mandatory treatments with chemicals, special agrotechnical measures are used:

  • watering is carried out only when the topsoil dries well
  • in the autumn, the site must be cleaned of plant residues, which are then destroyed
  • it is imperative to adhere to the rules of crop rotation
  • for cultivation, choose hybrids and varieties that are highly resistant to powdery mildew
  • do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, especially during the formation of buds
  • timely apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the soil, as they contribute to an increase in the resistance of the crop to disease
  • in the springtime, it is imperative to carry out sanitary pruning of shrubs and trees
  • regularly spray trees and bushes with a fungicidal preparation for prophylaxis, do this in early spring and at the end of leaf fall.

For prevention purposes, plants are sprayed with other chemicals that are used in the fight against powdery mildew. For example, the bushes are pollinated with sulfur 3 or 4 times, you can also spray them 3 times with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or another agent that has a similar effect.

How to save the garden and vegetable garden from frosts in May?

Spring weather does not spoil us with stability - either an abnormal heat in April, or a drop in temperature to frost in May. We are all familiar with the anxiety about the night "minuses" when the seedlings of vegetables have already been planted, because they may die. And flowering fruit trees, when the temperature drops to -2 ° C, can remain without ovaries in one night.

In general, frosts are of three types: radiation, advective and mixed. Radiation caused by local nighttime cooling, when there is a loss of heat from the ground. As a rule, radiation frosts are observed on cloudless nights; in calm weather, they can cover vast territories. They are the most dangerous to the garden. The reason advective (from Latin advectio - "delivery") frost is the invasion of cold air masses that move in a horizontal direction and bring everything that accompanies this - low temperatures, humidity, etc. this level. Mixed frosts combine both of the preceding types. Frosts vary in intensity and are weak (up to -2 ° C), medium (from -2 to -5 ° C), strong (from -5 ° C and below).

How to protect plants from frost?

I know of several methods that you can apply on your site. The easiest - shelter seedlings with plastic wrap or spunboard in several layers. And if the site is large? Or are they fruit trees? In this case, we do the following.

We spud potato shoots high, falling asleep tops. Many people mistakenly believe that spring frosts are not terrible for potatoes, because they are in the ground. Terrible! Potato seedlings are very afraid of frost and die when the temperature drops to -2 ° C. And if the tops are frozen and the potatoes won't bloom, then don't expect a harvest! After high hilling, the potatoes will sprout and everything will be fine with them.

Other plants can be saved abundantly watering in the daytime. The effectiveness of this technique is explained by the fact that in terms of heat capacity, water is much higher than air and soil. When water and air are cooled by only 1 ° C, 1000 kcal and 0.31 kcal, respectively, are released. Therefore, during irrigation, water, displacing air from the soil, increases its heat capacity and thermal conductivity. Under the sun's rays, the moist soil heats up and transfers heat to the lower layers, where it is stored.When the temperature drops at night, heat rises to the upper layers of the soil, warming them.

In addition, when the temperature drops, the vapor contained in the air, in the form of condensation, falls on the plants and soil, which is also accompanied by the release of heat. Taken together, this is enough to protect plants.

If the frosts are strong and prolonged, then additional measures are required - night watering or, better, fine sprinkling and spraying warm water... These activities should be started when the air temperature drops to 0 ° C. The plants will be covered with a thin layer of ice from the water, under which the temperature will remain at least 0 degrees. In the morning, the air temperature will rise, the ice will melt under the sun's rays, and the plants will remain intact. But still, be careful! The situation is different if the soil and above-ground air are dry, as we have now (there has been no rain for a long time). If you resort to late evening watering, then due to the evaporation of moisture, the frost will increase, and the vegetable plants will inevitably die. Therefore, it is necessary to water the garden in the daytime so that the moist soil can warm up with the sun.

To increase the resistance of plants to low temperatures, you can produce foliar feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or Epin (they increase the resistance of plants to cold weather and stress).

The gardens are sprayed too

Just like garden plants, fruit trees in the garden can also have a shower all night. Experienced gardeners claim that spraying orchards during frosts has proven to be the most effective remedy for protecting blooming apples, pears, cherries and other fruit plants. In the literature on horticulture, it is argued that irrigation can save plants when freezing to -8 degrees. Only this method has a drawback - you will have to spray your plants with water all night, trying to prevent the flowers and buds from freezing. But the harvest saved is worth it!

Plum flowers damaged by frost

If you don't want to spend the night with a watering hose, try using smoke to save your garden and vegetable garden from frost. Smoke done like this. First, dry material is placed on the ground, which can burn easily. Dry branches are inserted into the middle of it and a layer of dry material is poured on top. Garbage is placed on top of it, which will not burn, but give a large amount of smoke - it can be wood chips, shavings, sawdust, breaking straw, old hay, last year's leaves, small branches from trimming trees and raspberries, etc. By the way, this is a good reason to remove the area, if you have not already done so ... You can increase the smoke by adding pieces of roofing material, rubber, roofing felts to the pile. Smoke heaps are placed perpendicular to the direction of the wind, the distance between them should be 5-6 m. If the heap gives a lot of fire and little smoke, it should be poured with water from a watering can. There will be no benefit from smoking if instead of the smoke from the fire there is a strong flame. After all, a smoke screen is needed, and the richer it is, the more reliably the blooming garden will protect.

In the literature I found such information on the resistance of plants to low temperatures. Perhaps it will come in handy for you too.

Critical values ​​of temperature (ºC) damage to crops

Watch the video: Winter Sowing Cucumbers. Growing Cucumber Seedlings in the Snow or Cold Climates

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